Böcker av Tom Carroll

The former professional surfer tells his own story On the surface he was Tom Carroll, dreamer, brilliant surfer, Australian sports hero, fitness fanatic, businessman, family man, and big wave charger. But inside turned the terrible wheel of drug addiction--part family curse, part legacy of the footloose surf culture he'd done so much to legitimize. Tom's family and friends struggled with him, kept his secrets, and looked on in anger and fear as the wheel began to grind him down. Then a window opened, but getting through it made charging Pipeline look like a piece of cake. This is the story of an unlikely moral education: of humility, family, damage, brotherhood, youth, stupidity, glory, single-mindedness, and surrender, and about the feeling of water moving under a surfboard, how it can bind past to present and make sense of lives.

All of us are living in a time of volatility and unrest. It is not unusual for us to long for a moment of peace and quiet. This little book is a collection of vignettes, each written to stimulate the reader to think of something new and different for a moment or two and give our brains a rest. The primary intention of this book is to let you think of some totally outside of your normal routine and just let your mind exhale and experience a new calm. I could call the book a short cut meditation experience, but I would like each reader to use the book to take a break and enjoy a new thought or action. Use the book over and over and it will bring you many hours of interesting transformation. Enjoy!

This is a story that will warm your heart with the simplicity and beauty of childhood friendship and wonder. The fluid charm of the watercolor illustrations bring you back to those long beach days spent playing in the waves and in this case, avoiding mischievous seagulls.